Tanzania - Part 3 - Ngorogoro Crater (The Best & Worst of It)

 

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 13th

 

Early start this morning at 8:00 because we had a long and brutal drive back to Ngorogoro Crater.  Before returning to the awful roads, we stopped to check the pressure in the spare tire that we put on yesterday - probably a good thing, too, because it was at 50 psi. (If you don't know much about tires, that's ALOT of air - they overfill them because the spare tires may sit on the back of the vehicle for an extended time before they're needed).  I had begged Amani for a later start time, but there's simply TOO MUCH ADVENTURE to be had today.

First off we saw scores of Zebras - it's becoming the norm each morning, but they're so beautiful in person that it still doesn't get old. We made it to Ngorogoro Crater and checked in - there's no place to stay inside the crater, so ALL vehicles have to exit no later than 6:00 pm.

We started with an early lunch because I wasn't feeling well - travelling puts my stomach in knots. As we were sitting and admiring the view at the picnic location, we were surrounded by these really cute little birds hoping for scraps.  Although it's not allowed, I did surreptitiously throw one a piece of carrot - I've been missing my dogs today - and it turned around and brought me a present!  (A worm)

Today is our one and only chance to see a rhino, but it's very rare to find one.  We did see a TREMENDOUS number of zebra herds, wildebeest, flamingos, warthogs, elephants, lions, pelicans, hyenas, jackals, hippos, cranes - just EVERY direction you look, there are animals nearby.

The highlight of the day was WITHOUT A DOUBT an incredible experience we had with an old bull elephant.  It was off the main road, so we pulled over to look - I'm not meaning to be crude at all, but the first thing you notice is that his elephant penis was out and he was using it to scratch his stomach.  Amani explained that old bull elephants are abandoned by the herd when they are deemed no longer useful - and they live out their lives alone.  He also kept pelting us with unsolicited elephant facts like, "The Elephant penis weighs 25 kg and they ejaculate 5 liters of sperm at a time - that's more than a gallon for you Americans"  "If tusks break, they never grow back"

We're listening to his random facts and the elephant walks about 50 yards DIRECTLY TO OUR JEEP.  His giant head was within a few feet of mine - it was the most beautiful, magical, incredible thing I've experienced.  Amani whispered, "Do. Not. Move.  He's about 6,000 kg and if you startle him he could knock this jeep over easily."

The encounter went on for about twenty minutes and I would have stood there in awe for the entire day admiring this beautiful creature.  But eventually the elephant indicated he wanted to move, so Amani backed the jeep out of his way (as did the other guides) and we watched him saunter off.

INCREDIBLE.

As we were leaving the park (sadly without a successful rhino sighting) we did find a lioness with a fresh kill - a baby zebra.  At this point, we're so comfortable around the animals you seriously come to love them and want to get out and cuddle them.

IF YOU ARE PLANNING A TRIP TO TANZANIA - just as an aside - there IS a wildlife park that rescues wild animals that can't be returned to nature and you CAN hug them and cuddle them.  I wish I'd known this when I was planning our trip because I would have been completely down to do that.  Here's the link:  Serval WildLife

We filled up the car and headed to our stop for the night at Escarpment Lodge.  It's an absolutely BEAUTIFUL upscale hotel with the same rules as the others - no walking by yourself after dark.  It was tonight that I discovered DESPITE the fact we've been diligent about drinking only bottled water and brushing our teeth with bottled water - I've been eating ALOT of fresh fruit.  The fruit is washed in local water before being put out on the table - and TONIGHT is the night that all hell broke loose within my travel bound bowels.  I will spare you the details - but I haven't had an epic blowout like that since I was in diapers.

Back in our beautiful room, I slept like the dead.  It's been so magical - but I'm exhausted and looking forward to being home in my own bed.